Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Daily Expenses for a Gentleman in Philadelphia, 1772

Tuesday, April 14, 2015
Isabella reporting,

I love primary sources - letters, diaries, receipts, journals, inventories, and so on - that can act as an instant link to the past. (Apparently many of you agree: one of my most popular posts explored the inventory of an 18thc. woman's wardrobe.) Reading the elegant handwriting in faded ink, turning over the still-crisp papers, seeing the very human blotches of ink, misspellings, or doodles, can all make the intervening centuries disappear.

Last week I went searching through the papers of Philadelphian John Cadwalader (1742-1786) in the collection of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania. Cadwalader was a prominent merchant and landowner, and during the American Revolution, he became one of General Washington's commanders. He kept voluminous records of his finances and daily expenses, many of which survived and are now in the HSP's collections.

Looseleaf pages like this one, left, from January, 1772 might seem like the driest of accounting, a day-by-day catalog of Cadwalader's expenses. But the entries reveal not only more about Cadwalader's own personal and household spending, but also fascinating details about life in the 18thc. city.

In addition to the money given to "Jem Sampson for marketing" (I'm assuming he or she was the cook, though there is also another entry marked "paid to the Cook"), much of the household's food was bought directly from specialized shops or from individuals. Cadwalader lists items on this sheet for almonds, loaves of bread, yeast, lemons, and squab pigeons. Another page includes "a String of fish" and a payment to "a Woman on the German-Town Road for Eggs." He bought wine, too: "Mr. Morris for 5 Bottles Frontenacc."

Of course I was interested in seeing what was spent on clothing. Other pages have numerous expenses for Mrs. Cadwalader's wardrobe as well as his own, but two of the more expensive bills on this page are paid to "Isaac Parish for a Hat", and a whopping £4 for a "Muff & Tipit" to keep Mrs. Cadwalader warm. (To put that in perspective: modern estimates are that a common laborer in the 18thc. colonies earned roughly £40 annually, a schoolteacher earned £60, and a minister around £100. Odds are none of them were spending £4 for a muff and tipit.)

There are many entries for postage, for letters carried to New York and sent to far-away London. He paid for services like chimney-sweeping, "for Quilting a Cradle Quilt," and "for Bleeding Moll Singo & Jem Sampson." He had energy costs: "6 Cord Wood from over the Schuylkill [River]." Other pages include the annual fee for his church pew, payments to Charles Willson Peale for portraits of his family (including the one right), contributions to what would become the University of Pennsylvania, and alms to the poor, all signs of responsible, respectable 18thc. gentleman.

But there's another side to all this lavish spending that only appears in a couple of references: the expenses pertaining to the "Negroes." Scholars today guess that the Cadwaladers had at least seven slaves in their city house, and there were surely more working the family's sizable plantation on the Sassafras River in Kent County, Maryland. Were Jem (perhaps short for Jemima) and Moll among those enslaved people? The most important slave in George Washington's household during his presidency in Philadelphia in the 1790s was his cook, Hercules. Could Jem have had that trusted status with the Cadwaladers, too? (If anyone knows for certain, I'd love to learn more.)

And all that from what amounts to an 18thc. check register.

Above: Looseleaf page from John Cadwalader papers, Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
Lower right: John and Elizabeth Lloyd Cadwalader and their Daughter Anne, by Charles Willson Peale, 1772. Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Monday, April 13, 2015

A Rare Creamware Water Cistern

Monday, April 13, 2015
Loretta reports:
Another object that caught my eye during my visit to the High Museum of Art in Atlanta was this 18th century water cistern.

Like the tea party I showed previously, this is the sort of thing that can easily make its way into a story.  While the objects are interesting and beautiful in themselves, and their workmanship delights and impresses, they also help us visualize a bygone world, helping writers bring a scene to life and nerdy history persons do a bit of time traveling.

You can get another view of this cistern as well as learn more about it here.




Water Cistern and Cover, 1790-1795.  Cream –colored earthenware.  Leeds Pottery (Leeds, England), maker.  Purchase in memory of Frances Floyd Cocke, 2009.6a-b.  High Museum of Art.

 Clicking on the image will enlarge it.

Saturday, April 11, 2015

Breakfast Links: Week of April 6, 2015

Saturday, April 11, 2015
Fresh for your weekend web-surfing - our weekly round-up of fav links to other blogs, web sites, articles, and images, collected for you via Twitter.
• Ground-breaking research reveals significantly differently original composition in a beloved painting, Fragonard's Young Girl Reading.
• The feline ancestors of Hello Kitty? The cats of Japan's Edo Period.
• Rare Ojibwa Indian coat from the 1780s mixes traditional motifs with European style.
• An early 19th c. Easter miscellany.
• An astonishing 18th c. portrait: the Marquis de Boissy (1765-1840) depicted as a . . . hare.
• Two young British wheelwright apprentices visit Colonial Williamsburg to help keep alive a dying trade.
• Waterloo treasures featured in new interactive video from the Cambridge University Library.
• Stinks, smells, and fumes: Fumigating for health in early modern England.
• Image: Lovely informal portrait of a couple by Danloux, c. 1802.
• Camp followers in the Peninsular War.
• Twelve of NYC's historic ballrooms: grand entertainment venues of another era.
• Beer for breakfast: most 18th c. people began their days with beer.
• "Plus-size": a history of the fashion industry's most troubling term.
• Delicious rottenness: women, sex, and apples.
• The red dead-nettle: a weed from the Bronze Age.
• The old industry of rope-making: hemp from the Philippines, Russia, & Italy transformed in London, 1905.
• Image: the Chelsea Bun House, where supposedly over a quarter million buns were sold on Good Friday, 1829.
• Only full skeleton retrieved from Battle of Waterloo in 200 years identified after being found beneath a car park.
• Propaganda warfare: Benjamin Franklin fakes a newspaper.
• The US Forestry Service made this fantastic cocktail guide in 1974.
• The miracle of the heavens: how Galileo's telescope changed the world.
• Horace Walpole's Strawberry Hill: the eccentric house that inspired the Gothic Revival.
• The promenade de Longchamps: horses, hats, and history.
• Eighteenth century stockings: how shocking!
• Image: Giggle Water: cover to 1920s cocktail recipe book
• The Lady's Magazine, 18th c. boarding schools, and other problems.
• This elegant 1890 townhouse is the last sliver of the 19th c. on its block on W. 72nd Street, NYC.
• Just for fun: two medieval monks invent bestiaries. Watch out for that bed-bird tucking you in!
Hungry for more? Follow us on Twitter @2nerdyhistgirls for fresh updates daily.

Friday, April 10, 2015

Friday Video: Underwear in the V&A: From Corsets to Bullet-Bras and Back

Friday, April 10, 2015

Isabella reporting,

Corsets, stays, and underwear in general are always popular topics here on the blog, and the use of corseting to achieve a fashionable body shape is once again back in the news under the guise of "waist-training". In this video, Eleri Lynn, fashion curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, shares some of the highlights of the collection as well as her thoughts on the ever-changing ways that undergarments have been used to enhance, modify, and support the female body.

Ms. Lynn is also the author of one of my favorite books on historical underpinnings, Underwear: Fashion in Detail. The latest in the gorgeous series of fashion histories featuring the V&A's collections, this over-sized book is filled with page after page of beautiful images and stunning details. You'll find almost everything here, from a 16thc. boy's shirt to 18thc. stays to a 19thc. whalebone busk, Queen Victoria's bloomers to Calvin Klein's briefs. Highly recommended!

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Fashions for April 1864

Thursday, April 9, 2015
1864 Ladies Fashions
Loretta reports:

Blame it on all the Victorian history books I’ve been reading lately (and will blog about before long)—or on Astrida Schaeffer’s luscious book, Embellishments.*  These and/or other forces unknown have helped soften my heart toward Victorian fashions, even those of the 1850s and 1860s, with the big skirts and sloping shoulders I once found so unappetizing. 

These days, though, looking into Godey’s Lady’s Book or Peterson’s Magazine, with an open mind, shows me the sexiness—yes! & maybe all the more so because it seemed to be so deeply suppressed in everyday life—and artistry of the styles.
1864 Fashions described
Images from Godey's Lady's Book April 1864, courtesy Internet Archive.

*More about this here.

Clicking on the image will enlarge it.  Clicking on the caption will allow you to read at the source, where you can learn more and enlarge images as needed.
 
Two Nerdy History Girls. Design by Pocket