Saturday, January 23, 2010

Fashions for January 1830 Part Deux

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Loretta reports:

From La Belle Assemblée: or, Court and fashionable magazine; containing interesting and original literature, and records of the beau-monde.  Publisher J. Bell, 1830

A PELISSE of violet-coloured gros de la Chine, made very plain, and fastening imperceptibly down the front of the skirt, under a simple rouleau. The body made to fit close to the shape, and confined round the waist by a belt fastened in front by a gold buckle. Sleeves, à la Donna Maria, with lace ruffles at the wrists, turned back, and next the hand a bracelet of broad black velvet fastened by a gold buckle. A black velvet pelerine is added to this pelisse, with a double row of rich fringe, and is confined down the front by small gold buttons: the pelerine is finished at the throat by a triple ruff of fine lace. The hat is of figured black satin, lined with pink, and crowned by drooping willow feathers of the same colour. Black velvet ornaments finished by pink feather fringe, adorn the crown of the hat, and the ends fall over the left side of the brim. The half-boots are of black corded silk.

  A DRESS of figured gros de la Chine of a bright crimson, with a broad hem round the border, headed by a superb fringe: the front of the skirt made en tablier, scalloped at the sides, which are edged round by a narrower fringe than that over the broad hem. The corsage is made low, with lapel-robings, scalloped and edged by fringe. Over sleeves fitting close to the arm, are those of Marino Faliéro, trimmed round the looser part with fringe, and not confined round the wrist at the joint, as is usual in these sleeves; but the fullness is drawn together where the arm bends, to the elbow. This is a great improvement on those large sleeves, and has a graceful resemblance to those à la Mandarin. A dress hat of white satin forms the head dress; it is ornamented under the brim, on the right side, next the hair, by several puffs of white ribbon, delicately striped with shaded crimson. Two birds-of-paradise complete the ornaments, which, placed in front, fall over each side. The ear-pendants are, according to the present mode, large, and of massive gold, in the shape of a heart; and the bracelets very broad, of green and gold enamel.

  A DRESS of pale pink gros de Naples, with a broad hem at the border, headed by a beautifully light embroidery in outline, of small foliage, of a dark colour. The body is en gerbe, and the sleeves fitting close to the arm, as far as the elbow, whence they widen, but are not very large, even at the shoulders. A cloak of fine European Cachemire, of a drab-colour, is worn over this dress, and is embroidered with floize silk, in a pattern of blue-bells, or single hyacinths, and finished round the edge by a rouleau of satin. A double pelerine-cape falls over the shoulders : the cloak is lined throughout with barbel-blue satin, and a triple ruff of lace is worn round the throat- The hat is of black velvet, ornamented with bows of the same, and three aigrettes; one of which is placed at the extremity of the left side of the brim; the second in the front of the crown, and the third near the edge of the brim on the right side: the aigrettes consist of dark purple crocuses, with their grass-like foliage. The hat is of a very tasteful and novel shape: it is placed rather on one side, and its style is well adapted to the fashionable morning lounge. Strings of crocus-purple or barbel-blue float over the shoulders.


nightsmusic said...

I love looking at these old color plates. I have a Peterson's Magazine book from 1865. Some of the fashions aren't that far off from those shown here.

I still think I was born in the wrong era...

Susan Holloway Scott said...

Loretta and I are fascinated by the idea of that broad-brimmed hat with a dinner dress (the middle model.) Did the lady really wear that to the table? Sitting closely between her fellow diners, wouldn't such a hat have, well, gotten in the way? Imagine the poor footmen attempting to get past the hat to remove plates, or how it would have felt to be the gentleman on the wrong side of those huge poufs of ribbon!

News From the Holmestead said...

I adore hats and wish they'd come back in style in a big way. In my mom's youth, you weren't properly dressed unless you had a hat and gloves and a lace handkerchief.

Vanessa Kelly said...

I'm with you on the hat for the dinner dress, Susan. It's hilarious. These clothes are a wonderful combination of beautiful and totally out there. I bet the fabrics are lovely, though, and I love the descriptions of the colors.

LorettaChase said...

Funny thing is, I used to find these fashions hilarious. But maybe they've grown on me, because now they're starting to look like a treat to wear! Especially the hats. One of the things I love about watching major events in England--like receptions at Buckingham Palace, the Ascot races, etc--is the hats. I dressed vintage for an event some years ago, and one of the things that surprised me was how much fun it was to wear a frivolous (as in, NOT to keep one's head warm), pretty hat.

Susan Holloway Scott said...

Fashion IS all about perception. Think of the clothes you believed were oh-so-hot in high school, and whenever that was --ten, or twenty, or more years ago -- the same clothes now seem completely laughable.

But it works the other way, too, as Loretta notes -- the more time you (well, we) spend imagining a historical era, its people and its fashion, the more acceptable and attractive the fashion becomes. Weird, but true. Certainly the more I look at these Belle Assemblee dresses from Loretta, the more stylish they're becoming. I particularly like the dinner dress with the "massive" gold earrings....

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