Wednesday, September 5, 2012

French Fashions for September 1829

Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Loretta reports:

This month’s fashion plates come from an Ackermann’s Repository devoted exclusively to fashion.  Also, they are French.  I am crazy about the hair.










                                                                                          

 


                                                                                                                          
 —Ackermann's Respository of Fashions, 1829

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Tuesday, September 4, 2012

A Jeweled Gold Carnet-de-Bal, c 1777

Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Isabella/Susan reporting:

I've already written about how much I love the luxurious personal trinkets that filled the pockets of a wealthy 18th c. lady – a gold box for rouge, or the perfectly named necessaire. Here's one more little goodie, left, to gather up from the dressing table as the carriage waits below: a carnet-de-bal from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

A carnet-de-bal's purpose explains itself in the English translation. It's a dance card, and it's also called a souvenir, French for "to remember", a memento. This, however, is no ordinary Statue-of-Liberty-in-a-snow-globe souvenir, but the beautiful work of several master Parisian craftsmen. Small in size (only 3-3/8" x 2 1/16", or about the same as a modern card-case), this souvenir is made of gold, with brilliant enameling and an enameled portrait of a now-unknown lady. The word "souvenir" is spelled out in diamonds, and tiny pearls fill in the borders. (Click here for the link to the Museum's page to be able to zoom in on all the astonishing details.)

The photograph of the souvenir, below right, shows the hinged lid open. Beside it are the matching gold-handled stylus, and the fan of ivory sheets, held together with a gold pin, that fit perfectly inside. The stylus could be used like a pencil on the ivory sheets to jot down random notes: what His Grace wishes for dinner, or the address of that cunning new milliner. But in the role of a carnet-de-bal, the ivory sheets would be filled with the evening's dances and the names of the partners promised to each one. The fashion for carnets-de-bal was just beginning in the courts of Europe in the mid-18th c., and later would evolve into the little printed pasteboard booklets of the 19th c., dangling on silken cords from a lady's wrist.

Souvenirs were popular, if costly, gifts to be exchanged among friends and lovers - an elegantly sentimental way to say "remember me when this you see." The other side of this particular souvenir has the word L'amitie, or friendship, spelled out in diamonds, with a diamond urn of flowers and pair of doves. Most likely the portrait on the front is of either the giver or the recipient, or perhaps another deceased friend (the urn and doves may indicate this as a memorial piece.) Whoever she may have been, it's a lovely little tribute to a long-ago friendship.

Above: Souvenir, French (Paris), 1776-77. Gold, diamonds, pearls, enamel. Metropolitan Museum of Art; photographs copyright Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Monday, September 3, 2012

The Straw Bonnet Maker

Monday, September 3, 2012


Loretta reports:

In honor of Labor Day, and as part of my series on historical occupations, we’re looking at hats, and the making thereof.  The job description in the book is another page longer.  If you’d like to read the whole thing, you can find it here.

 
 
Detail from 1813 Ackermann fashion plate

  
                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                                                                           
—John Souter, The Book of English Trades: And Library of the Useful Arts, 1818

Please click on the text to enlarge to readable size.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Breakfast Links: Week of August 27, 2012

Saturday, September 1, 2012
It may be the last unofficial week of summer, but we still have a bumper crop of Breakfast Links for you - our favorite links to other blogs, web sites, photographs, and articles you won't want to miss.
• Vintage photos of bathing machines, c 1900.
• How dandies looked: men's hair styles at the turn of the 19th c.
• Dress off the shoulders, hair hanging loose: Prince Albert's favorite portrait of Queen Victoria.
• Adventures of Stubby, heroic dog of WWI.
• London's burning...fires, fear, and insurance in the 1700s.
• The truth about 19th c. hair receivers.
• In 1788 letter, Thomas Jefferson is very particular about his pasta mold.
• The Leatherman, mysterious wanderer in 19th c New England.
• Why has the reputation of Florence Nightingale fallen while that of Mary Seacole has risen so rapidly?
• The perils of drinking, c 1700.
• Fair Rosamund! A medieval royal mistress whose legend extended into the 17th c and beyond.
• The challenge of a "smart society woman" in 1901: the impossibility of dressing on only £1000 a year.
• Extraordinary list of things to take to a picnic in Annapolis, MD, 1754.
• The Crusader's Bride: the life of 12th c. Berengaria of Navarre, Queen of England.
• Finding Shakespeare's Forest of Arden.
• Among New York City's hundreds of statues of heroes and statesmen proudly stands Ralph Kramden.
• The wife is less than pleased: couple discover 33-foot-deep hole dug in the middle ages beneath their sofa.
• Early 20th c factory girls and boys, photographed by Lewis Wickes Hine.
Posset, a drink of wine and milk, used to be drunk in posset pots.
• How Cleopatra's Needle was transported over the sea to London.
• No one could resist Sarah..." The short, tempestuous life of 19th c artist's model Sarah Brown.
Tudor women united: birth, misogyny, and female space.
• Happy birthday, Mary Shelley, born this week in 1797: her scientific inspiration for Frankenstein.
• Several not-so-plain 18th c brown chintz gowns.
• Love on the range: the true story of a 19th c cowboy.
• Joyful celebration of color: the Royal Pavilion in Brighton in watercolors by John Nash.
• Breathtaking: the angel roof at Wymondham Abbey, Norfolk, c 1445.
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Friday, August 31, 2012

Friday Video: Mark Twain, 1909

Friday, August 31, 2012

Isabella/Susan reporting:

This short, silent clip is doubly rare: not only is it the only known film of humorist and author Mark Twain (1835-1910), but it was shot by his friend, inventor and pioneer filmmaker Thomas Edison (1847-1931). While it seems ironic to have no more than a silent record of Twain, a man known for his keen wit and entertaining public speaking, this minute-and-a-half still manages to capture his personality. You can imagine Twain joking with Edison while he strolls down the path, puffing on his cigar as the wind ruffles his white hair, and imagine him, too, laughing with his two daughters as they drink tea – or at least pretend to. And don't miss one of his daughters anchoring her hat against that same breeze with a lethally long hatpin!

Mark Twain with Daughters Clara & Jean at "Stormfield," Redding Connecticut, 1909, by Thomas Edison. From the Internet Archive.
 
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